First - do not be afraid of the wires on your bike. The 12v circuits will not hurt you. Any switch will work provided it is the right type (probably single pole, single throw). However, before you replace the switch, you should make sure that it is the switch which is broken. Find a way to bypass the switch and connect the two wires that lead to the switch and see if this turns the lightbar on. If so, you should then take the switch apart, if possible, and look for a problem. It could be something as simple as needing to clean, sand, scrape an electrical contact. If you do need a switch, your big problem will be finding one that mounts in the same spot and in the same way as the current switch.

 

Thanks again Vinish this seems like something I can even do.. I will connect the two wires together and see if the lights come on.. If it does you say its more than likely the Switch that has to be replaced.. I appreciate it Man thanks.. I hope it works because i like those lights on it seems like I dont get cut off as much on the road when they are On.. Scott Rees...

 

Thank you Vinish for your Knowledge.. I am gonna follow your Words Exactly, and hopefully get this Button sorted out.. I appreciate it very much Pal.. Your a good Guy.. Scott Rees .

 

Thank you Vinish for your Knowledge.. I am gonna follow your Words Exactly, and hopefully get this Button sorted out.. I appreciate it very much Pal.. Your a good Guy.. Scott Rees .

Thank you Vinish for your Knowledge.. I am gonna follow your Words Exactly, and hopefully get this Button sorted out.. I appreciate it very much Pal.. Your a good Guy.. Scott Rees .

I have a Kuryaykn push on-off switch on my handlebars for my road lights. Powered by a simple circuit from a fuse block off the battery. The switch is an easy connection in this type of circuit. When you push on, it completes the loop. When you push it again, it breaks the loop and turns it off. This circuit also has the fuse in the fuseblock for protection.

 

Thanks alot for the Advice.. I'm gonna check into that type of switch..

 

If you cannot access the wires in an attempt to connect them, there is one more trick you can try. Insert a larger sewing needle into each light bar switch wire until you are confident this needle is touching the internal wire strands inside the insulation. Then connect these two sewing needles using another external wire and see if your light bar comes on. If not, look for an inline fuse in the light bar wiring.

 

I like this advice alot.. And it makes sence.. I'll see if that works for me..

 

You would be doing yourself a favor to pick up a cheap multimeter and learn at least it's most basic functions. They make troubleshooting things like this tremendously easier.
A simple continuity test at the switch or a test for 12V at each wire in both positions of the switch would tell you everything you need to know.
Vinish's suggestions are great ways to work around not having a meter but in the long run you will find owning one worthwhile.

If you go looking for a replacement switch you may need to check dimensions of the original to make sure your replacement will fit and you want to make sure it is a latching switch, not momentary.
A momentary switch would only make contact while being held.
As Vinish said, it would be a Single Pole Single Throw usually noted as SPST.

It is possible no voltage is being sent to the switch. It is also possible that your ground or power wire to the lights has become disconnected.

Typical testing would be to check for voltage at the switch and that the voltage goes back out the other side of the switch when activated. If that is good you then test for voltage at the light. If still good you check that the ground wire at the light is working by doing a continuity test or by jumping the ground wire to a bare spot on the frame or bolt head going into the frame.

 

You would be doing yourself a favor to pick up a cheap multimeter and learn at least it's most basic functions. They make troubleshooting things like this tremendously easier.
A simple continuity test at the switch or a test for 12V at each wire in both positions of the switch would tell you everything you need to know.
Vinish's suggestions are great ways to work around not having a meter but in the long run you will find owning one worthwhile.

If you go looking for a replacement switch you may need to check dimensions of the original to make sure your replacement will fit and you want to make sure it is a latching switch, not momentary.
A momentary switch would only make contact while being held.
As Vinish said, it would be a Single Pole Single Throw usually noted as SPST.

It is possible no voltage is being sent to the switch. It is also possible that your ground or power wire to the lights has become disconnected.

Typical testing would be to check for voltage at the switch and that the voltage goes back out the other side of the switch when activated. If that is good you then test for voltage at the light. If still good you check that the ground wire at the light is working by doing a continuity test or by jumping the ground wire to a bare spot on the frame or bolt head going into the frame.

Thanks alot for the Advice.. I have a really good Multimeter but im not sure hiw to test wires to see if they are working or not. Im gonna read your words more carefully and follow the instructions to see where the Problem is.. I hope it works out.. Thanks again..
Scott Rees..

 

I have several DMM's (digital multi meters) and one analog clamp on meter. One is a very inexpensive Harbor Freight unit, maybe 15-20 years old, and it works as flawless as the better more expensive ones like Sperry or Fluke. The HF unit is handier because of its small size, maybe 2 cigarette packs side x side.